Players diagnose a failing court long before a contractor ever gets called.
Players spot a bad court before any contractor does. The ball dies in one corner. A dink that should sit up comes off low and flat. Somebody stops mid-rally to point at a line where the coating has cracked into a hairline map nobody remembers seeing last summer. Nothing about those complaints sounds like concrete. Every one of them is a report on the slab underneath.
We build and rebuild courts for community associations, clubs, apartment and mixed-use properties, and amenity spaces around Lone Tree. Demand has run out ahead of supply here like it has everywhere, so much of what we get called to look at was converted from something else or built quickly on a tight budget. A court slab has an unusual assignment. It carries almost no weight. What it has to do is hold a true plane, and hold it through twenty years of freeze-thaw at 5,817 feet.
Cracks that mirror straight lines are the loudest signal. If a crack in the coating runs dead straight across the court, you are looking at a control joint in the concrete telegraphing up through the surface, with the coating left as the only thing bridging it. Spider cracking is a different story and points at a thin or poorly cured slab.
Standing water is the next one. Twenty minutes after a storm passes, anything still holding a puddle is a low spot, and a low spot means the slab was not placed in a true plane or a section has settled. In our winters those puddles freeze, and ice sitting on an acrylic coating pulls it off the concrete in sheets over a couple of seasons.
Then look at the perimeter. Coating peeling back at the edges usually means water is getting under the slab from the outside, often from a landscape bed or a downspout draining toward the court. And check the net posts. A post that has heaved even slightly pulls the net out of level and rings its own footing with cracks.
| Element | What we build to | Why it shows up in play |
|---|---|---|
| Playing area | 20 by 44 feet, striped inside the lines | The court everybody knows. Everything else is the space around it |
| Minimum slab | 30 by 60 feet of paved surface | Chasing a lob into a fence is how ankles get rolled |
| Surface slope | One percent, in a single plane, side to side | Water clears in minutes and the ball never favors one end |
| Net post footings | Below frost depth and isolated from the playing slab | A heaved post pulls the net out of level and cracks the surface around it |
| Orientation | Long axis running roughly north to south | Nobody serves into a low sun for the last hour of daylight |
| Fence footings | Outside the run-off area, clear of the slab edge | Footings tied to the pad hand every bit of movement to the surface |
The coating on a court is thin, colored, and permanently in the sun. At this elevation the UV is hard on pigment, so a court here fades faster than the same product in a lower, cloudier place. That is cosmetic. What is not cosmetic is what freeze-thaw does to any water the surface holds, which is why the slope has to land in one clean plane the day it is poured.
Hail is the other one. A big stone event can bruise a coating and leave pockmarks that shed color the following spring.
Season drives the schedule more than most projects, because a court is two builds stacked together. Concrete goes down between late April and October, and then the surface needs a full cure before any coating touches it. Coating systems also have their own temperature windows, generally needing warm days and nights above the low fifties. So a slab poured in late September may not get color until spring, and that belongs in the bid rather than in a November phone call. Pour early in the season and you play the same year.
Send photos of the cracks and where water sits after a storm. We will tell you whether it is a coating problem or a slab problem, free.
Somebody spends real money on a color coating over a slab that was already moving. The coating looks great for one season and then every joint in the concrete shows up right through it. Fix the slab first. The paint is the last inch of the job, not the fix.The crew lead's read on it
Still unsure about something?
Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.
Get a free, no-obligation estimate from a crew that knows Colorado soil, Colorado weather, and how to finish concrete that lasts.
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