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Basketball & Sport Courts in Larkspur, Colorado
Larkspur, Colorado

Larkspur Basketball Courts

One plane, one direction of fall, and joints drawn so the ball never takes a bounce nobody asked for.

Ask anybody who has one and they'll tell you the court gets used for basketball maybe half the time. The rest is a scooter track in June, a hockey rink the week it drops below freezing, the place a kid learns to ride a bike, where the folding tables go when there are too many people in the house, and a lot of hours of somebody shooting alone at dusk.

Larkspur properties have the one thing that makes this work: room. Nobody out here is squeezing a court between two fences. What these lots hand you instead is slope, trees, and distance from the road, so grading and the access plan matter more than square footage. Get the plane right and it plays true for thirty years.

1%of fall, all in a single plane
4-5"slab thickness over compacted base
30 x 50a backyard size that plays like a court
28 daysbefore we stripe and seal

Court sizes and what fits a Larkspur lot

What each footprint gives you day to day, and what it asks of the site
FootprintHow it actually playsSite demands
Key and apron, roughly 20 by 25Shooting, free throws, one-on-oneFits almost anywhere flat. A good phase-one slab
Half court around 30 by 30Three on three, with room behind the arcModest grading, and it slots between mature trees
Stretched half court, 30 by 50Room to drive, shoot the corner, skate in winterWants a truly flat bench, so expect cut and fill
Three-quarter court, 42 by 50Transition play without the full footprintReal earthwork and access for a bigger pour
Full court, 84 by 50 or largerOrganized games. It dominates the propertyHeavy excavation, retaining on grade, a serious pour day
Multi-sport 30 by 60Basketball with pickleball striped over itOrientation matters. Long axis roughly north to south

One plane, and joints that stay out of the way

A driveway can crown. A patio can pitch two directions to a corner. A basketball court cannot do either, because the moment the surface has a fold in it the ball starts behaving differently depending on where you dribble. So we build the whole slab as a single flat plane tilted about one percent in one direction, usually toward the low side of the property, and we check it with a laser before and after the pour rather than trusting a screed and good intentions.

Joint layout is the other half of playing true. Concrete gets control joints or it cracks where it feels like cracking, and a random crack across the top of the key is exactly what you don't want. We draw the joint plan around the court lines: outside the lane, along the sidelines and the baseline where possible, and never straight through the shooting areas. Cut them the same day the slab goes down, tight and early, so the concrete relieves itself in the cut instead of somewhere embarrassing.

Then the finish. A medium broom gives grip for shoes without shredding knees, and it takes an acrylic sport coating well if you want color and painted lines later.

Have a spot picked out for a court?

We'll shoot the grades, tell you how much dirt has to move, and lay out the biggest footprint your site can actually hold.

Weather, seasons, and living with it year round

Pour between late spring and early fall. A court is a large single placement and we want a full day of settled weather, which in July and August means starting at first light and finishing ahead of the storms building over the foothills. Rain arriving mid-finish drives water into the surface and hands you a court that dusts. On something people slide across in sneakers, that's more than cosmetic.

Sun at this elevation is the underrated factor. Ultraviolet exposure runs harder here than down in the metro, and it goes after acrylic coatings and painted lines faster than most people plan for. Budget on refreshing both periodically. Prefer not to think about it? A plain broom finish with no coating ages gracefully and wants sealing every few years.

Winter use is the fun part. Snow clears off easily if you get to it before it packs, and plenty of families out here flood a corner and skate. Keep ice melt off it, magnesium chloride above all. And sweep the pine needles in autumn, because a wet needle mat left all winter stains concrete and leaves a slick patch in March.

What we build into a court

  • Grades shot across the whole footprint before we quote, so the earthwork is a number and not a hope
  • Subgrade cut, road base built up in thin layers and compacted layer by layer
  • Number 4 rebar tied on a grid and set on chairs, because a court is one big uninterrupted slab
  • 4,000 PSI air-entrained mix, placed continuously in a single pour
  • Single-plane screed with laser verification, no crown and no double pitch
  • Joints cut the same day, mapped around the key and clear of the shooting lanes
  • Goal footing dug below frost, sleeved, and poured with the pad or as its own element
  • Medium broom finish, then coating and striping once the concrete has cured
Larkspur Basketball Courts

Basketball Courts in Larkspur

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Four inches over well-compacted base handles basketball fine. We go to five when a vehicle will ever cross it, which on rural lots happens more than people admit, or when the base under one end is fill rather than native ground. Number 4 rebar on a grid, on chairs, and a 4,000 PSI air-entrained mix. On a slab this large, steel is what keeps a shrinkage crack from becoming a gap.

Two usual suspects. Either the slab was poured with more than one pitch, so there's a subtle ridge running through it, or a crack or joint has opened and the two sides are no longer flush. Both are geometry problems rather than surface problems, and a coating won't hide either. We shoot the surface with a laser and show you the actual numbers before recommending anything.

Sweep it, particularly in autumn when needles and leaves pile up. Shovel or plow snow before it packs into ice rather than letting it sit. Keep chemical ice melt off it. If you've got an acrylic sport coating, plan on refreshing it as the sun works on it, and touch up the lines at the same time. Bare concrete just wants sealing every few years.

Late spring through early fall. September is a great month for it, with warm days, cool nights, and enough of a runway before frost. Play on it after about a week for light shooting, and wait the full 28 days before we put down coating or striping, since the concrete needs to finish curing before anything gets bonded to the surface.

Earthwork, almost always, because building a flat plane on sloped ground means cutting one end and filling the other, and sometimes retaining the cut. After that: size, thickness, base depth, and whether we're pumping the pour or chuting it off a nearby drive. Goal footings, fencing, coating, and lighting are separate decisions you can phase. We measure and write it all out for free.

It's the normal situation here and it's solvable. We find the flattest available bench, work out how much cut and fill gets us there, and check that the resulting drainage makes sense. Trees are the harder talk, since roots running under a new slab cause trouble later. We'll be straight about which ones have to go.

Absolutely, and we get asked constantly. The concrete work is identical; orientation and size are what change, because you want the long axis running roughly north to south so nobody is staring into the sun. Tell us every sport you want on it during layout and we'll size the slab and place the joints so both games play right.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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