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Footings & Piers in Fort Collins, Colorado
Fort Collins, Colorado

Fort Collins Footings & Piers

Tell us the age of the house and the shape of the lot, and we can guess most of what the holes will find.

Fort Collins didn't grow evenly, and the bearing work we get called for tracks that history almost perfectly. A brick house north of the campus with a wood porch and an alley garage brings one set of problems. A two story near Harmony with a big deck off the kitchen brings a completely different one. A new place in Rigden Farm brings a third, and it usually starts with a side gate that's an inch too narrow.

Nobody thinks about a footing until the thing sitting on it starts leaning. Then it's the only thing anybody wants to talk about. We drill and pour supports for decks, porches, additions, garages, pergolas, and outbuildings across this town, and we do it with an engineer on staff, because the right answer here depends on ground that changes from one block to the next.

What the vintage of a property tells us before we open a hole

Older houses around Old Town were built when a porch column often got whatever the crew had handy underneath it. Flat stones. A shallow pad barely into the dirt. Sometimes a post set straight in the ground, which lasted an impressive number of decades and then didn't. Those columns have been riding a hard freeze cycle every winter since, and the ones that dropped, dropped for the same reason: the support never reached ground that stops moving.

Subdivision homes around Harmony and Fossil Creek bring a different failure. The house is fine. The deck isn't. Builders backfilled deep against the foundation, somebody added a deck years later, and the posts landed in that loose fill. Out in newer areas like The Landing and Registry Ridge, the yards themselves are graded fill, and a post-and-block deck kit sitting on that finds the truth eventually.

Where these calls come from around town

Property types we work on in Fort Collins, and what tends to eat the day at each
Kind of propertyWhat we're usually supportingWhat makes it slow
Older home with an alley garagePorch columns, garage corners, additions on shallow original supportsAlley access, tight setbacks, and buried utilities nobody drew
Mid-century ranch near the coreCovered patio posts, carports, settled stoopsMature trees whose roots own the top few feet of every hole
Nineties two story near HarmonyDeck posts, second story decks, hot tub platformsDeep uncompacted backfill along the house that we have to drill through
Fossil Creek era homeSunroom and covered patio additionsMatching the original footing depth so the addition and the house move together
New build in Rigden Farm or The LandingDeck and pergola supports in yards made of graded fillA side gate the equipment barely clears, and finished sod on both sides
Edge lot out toward Registry RidgeShops, pole barns, detached garagesUplift on tall light structures with open ground and no heat inside

Depth answers frost. Width answers load. Different questions.

People collapse those two into one number and it causes no end of confusion. Depth is about getting the bottom of the concrete below the ground that freezes, so ice forming in the soil can't grab the support and lift it. We set below frost and we confirm the required depth with the building department, because this is the northern end of the Front Range and the depth here is not the depth somebody's brother-in-law used in Denver.

Width is a separate calculation entirely: how much weight lands here, spread across how much bearing area, on soil with a given capacity. A skinny deep hole and a wide shallow pad solve different problems, and a pier on a light structure has a third job on top of both. Wind wants to pull a pergola or a carport up, not push it down, so the connection at the top and the mass at the bottom both have to resist lift.

3things confirmed in every hole: depth, bearing, and no standing water
#4rebar tied into pier cages, with sizing from our engineer
7 daysbefore framing loads go on new concrete, full strength at 28
Deck leaning, porch dropping, or a new structure to support?

We'll look at what's there, tell you honestly whether it needs work, and put depths in writing if it does. Free visit. (303) 569-4046.

Digging season in a town that freezes deep

Late spring through fall is the comfortable window, and fall is quietly the best of it. Ground is dry, the yard recovers before winter, and concrete cures without anybody babysitting the forecast. Spring is the fussy season. Snowmelt and a wet April make holes that cave and lawns that rut, so we sometimes wait two weeks for a site to drain rather than leave you with a torn up yard for the summer.

Winter drilling is still work we take on. Frost only claims the top of the profile, and the auger goes through it, though the first stretch of every hole comes out in frozen chunks and the day runs slower. We pour with heated water and cover the tops, and we don't place concrete against a frozen hole bottom. If a project has any flexibility, aim the digging at September and October and you'll get the smoothest version of this job.

Fort Collins Footings & Piers

Footings & Piers in Fort Collins

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Below the frost line, and the required depth gets confirmed with the building department before we dig rather than pulled from memory. Northern Larimer County freezes deeper than the metro, so numbers people quote from a job in Denver are not useful here. On engineered work the drawings set depth, and the inspector verifies the hole before concrete.

Not automatically. The house was designed for its loads and its soil report, and a deck is a much lighter structure with a different tolerance for movement. What matters is whether the deck's supports reach past the loose backfill and the frost zone. Sometimes that means piers. Often it means properly sized and properly deep footings, which cost less.

Depends on the building above it. If the framing is sound and only the corners have dropped, underpinning is usually the cheaper path, and new bearing can go in a section at a time. If the walls are out of plumb and the slab is broken, you're spending real money to hold up something that has already given up.

Usually, and it's the first thing we measure. Our smaller drill rigs fit through a standard gate, and on tight sites we hand dig or use compact equipment and haul spoils out by wheelbarrow. That changes the labor, so we tell you up front rather than discovering it on the morning of. Alleys are typically easier than back yards, since nothing has to cross the lawn.

For most decks, yes, and the hole gets inspected before concrete goes in. That's good for you, since it puts a second set of eyes on depth and bearing. We handle the scheduling. Check your HOA separately, because design approval and a building permit are two different lines to stand in.

They have to bear on comparable ground at a comparable depth, which usually means matching or going deeper. When a new footing sits shallower than the original, the addition rides a different part of the soil profile and the two halves start moving independently. That's what produces the crack down the seam between old and new that homeowners call about years later.

Hardware and framing usually go on within a few days, confirmed against the mix, the weather, and what's landing on top. Full design strength arrives at 28 days, but a deck frame is a modest load next to what that concrete will eventually carry. Tell us your builder's date early and we'll sequence the pour around it.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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