(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
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Mudjacking & Slab Jacking in Highlands Ranch, Colorado
Highlands Ranch, Colorado

Highlands Ranch Mudjacking

Sunken panels floated back to grade on a sand-and-cement slurry, no tear-out truck required.

Subdivisions built in one push tend to fail in one push too. A whole street of Westridge front walks went in during the same few weeks, over trenches backfilled by the same crew, and thirty-some years later those walks are dropping in the same places. Same story on garage aprons, where the water and sewer laterals run out to the street under four inches of concrete.

Mudjacking puts those panels back where they belong. We drill a small grid of holes, pump a slurry of sand, cement, and water underneath, fill the void, and float the slab up until it reads level against its neighbor. The concrete you already own stays. The trip hazard leaves. And you park on it that afternoon.

1 5/8"hole we drill for the pump hose
1/4"height difference that already counts as a trip hazard
100 lbsroughly what a cubic foot of our slurry weighs
Same daywalk it and park on it once we clean up

The slabs that sink here, and the houses they came with

Age tells you a lot about which panel dropped. On the older side of the community, Northridge and Westridge, the usual suspects are the front walk and the strip of driveway right at the garage door. Both sit over trench backfill that was dumped in and tamped by boot rather than compacted in lifts. Water finds those trenches, the loose fill settles, and the slab loses its support from the middle out.

Eastridge and Southridge bring a different pattern. Those yards have had thirty years of sprinkler heads spraying the same six feet of patio edge, and the soil under that edge has been wet and dry so many times it packs down like a mattress with a person-shaped dent. Newer streets in BackCountry and The Hearth aren't immune either. When a builder backfills against a foundation and the landscape crew tops it off two months later, the settlement is still coming. We lift plenty of ten-year-old patios.

Which sunken slab is a lift candidate

Where the pump pays for itself and where it doesn't
SlabGood candidate?What we check first
Front walk panelsAlmost alwaysWhether the panels are whole. Intact concrete lifts clean.
Driveway apron at the garageYesHow far it dropped and whether water now runs toward the garage door.
Patio against the houseYes, and it's urgentWhich way it slopes. A patio tipped toward the foundation sends water where you least want it.
Garage floorOftenWhether the slab is separate from the footing. We lift the field, not the bearing edge.
Stoop and stepsSometimesSteps that rotated away from the house usually need rebuilding, not lifting.
Pool deck panelsYes, with careCoping, bond beam, and any plumbing buried in the backfill.
Anything cracked into four or more piecesNoBroken concrete rides up in pieces and lands crooked. That one gets replaced.
Got a low corner and a stubbed toe?

We'll measure the drop, count the holes, and hand you a fixed number before we touch a drill.

Voids, water, and picking your season

A slab doesn't sink because the concrete got tired. It sinks because something below it left. Loose backfill compresses, a slow irrigation leak washes fines out sideways, a downspout drops a hundred gallons in one spot during an August cloudburst, and the panel bridges the gap until it can't. Our slurry goes into that gap. Sand-and-cement mud is heavy on purpose, which is exactly what you want when the void needs filling as much as the slab needs raising.

Season matters less for lifting than for pouring, and that's one of the nice things about it. April through November is easy. We work through cold snaps too, right up until the top few inches of ground go hard, because frozen soil won't let the mud spread the way it needs to. Late summer is our busiest stretch, since that's when storm runoff exposes every soft spot in a yard. If the drop is bad enough to catch a toe, don't wait for spring. A hazard doesn't care what month it is.

Included on every lift we do

  • Elevation shot across the low panels and their neighbors so we lift to a real target
  • Hole layout planned to the void, not stamped on a lazy uniform grid
  • Slurry mixed on site and pumped in stages so the slab rises evenly
  • Constant checks against a string line and level while the mud goes in
  • Holes packed and finished flush with a color-matched patch
  • Joints and edges cleaned, caulked where they should be, so water stops going back under
  • A look at whatever caused it: downspouts, grade, sprinkler heads pointed the wrong way
Highlands Ranch Mudjacking

Mudjacking in Highlands Ranch

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Right away, in most cases. The slurry supports the panel the moment it's placed, so you can walk across a lifted front walk before we've loaded the trailer. Vehicles are fine the same day on a driveway or apron unless we filled an unusually deep void, in which case we'll ask for a day. Nothing about this job puts your driveway out of service for a week.

You'll find them if you go looking. We drill about an inch and five eighths, then pack each hole and finish it flush with a patch mixed toward your slab's color. On weathered gray concrete they fade into the background within a season. On stamped or stained work they're more noticeable, which is a real consideration and one we bring up before we start rather than after.

Because the ground under that one section is different. Most of the time it's a utility trench, a foundation backfill zone, or a spot where water has been concentrating for years. Compacted native soil holds a slab fine. Loose fill next to it doesn't. That's why lifting one panel and walking away often works: the neighbors are sitting on undisturbed ground and were never going anywhere.

By a wide margin, and it saves you days as well. We won't quote figures here, but the drivers are simple: number of holes, how much material the void swallows, and access for the pump. A lift also skips demo, haul-off, forming, and a 28-day cure. Where it stops being the better buy is when the concrete itself is shot. Lifting bad concrete just gives you bad concrete at the right height.

A single crack, usually yes. We plan the hole pattern to raise both sides together and keep them moving as one piece. Two or three cracks, we get honest about the odds. Once a panel is broken into several chunks there's no way to bring them up in unison, and you end up with a puzzle that's level in spots. That's the point where replacement is the cheaper answer.

Years, and often decades, when the cause gets addressed at the same time. The slurry cures hard and doesn't compress. What can move again is the soil beside it, so if a downspout still empties beside that slab, or an irrigation line keeps weeping under it, we'll be having this conversation again. Fix the water, and the lift holds as long as the concrete does.

Through most of it. Lifting doesn't depend on cure temperatures the way a pour does, so a January day in the forties is a working day for us. The stopping point is frozen ground. When the top of the subgrade is locked up, mud won't travel into the void properly and the lift comes out uneven. During a hard freeze we schedule you for the first thaw.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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