(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
Go Denver Concrete
Garage Floors & Slabs in Englewood, Colorado
Englewood, Arapahoe County

Englewood Garage Floor Contractors

Half the garage floors we look at don't need replacing. Knowing which half is the whole job.

Most people who call about a garage floor haven't decided anything yet. They've decided they're annoyed. It's dusty, or there's a crack you can feel through a shoe, or a puddle parks by the door every February. Between that annoyance and a new slab sit three or four different choices that cost wildly different amounts.

Worth saying plainly: plenty of garage floors don't need replacing. Older houses in Northwest Englewood often sit on slabs poured thinner than anybody would pour today, over a base nobody wrote down, and a good number of them are still flat and sound. Meanwhile a newer-looking floor over in Broadway Estates can be the one riding on ground that shifted. Which failure you have decides whether you're buying a tube of joint filler or a week without a garage.

Start with what the floor has to do, not what it looks like

A slab that parks two sedans and holds a lawnmower is being asked for almost nothing. Cosmetic problems on that floor stay cosmetic. Grind it, coat it, live with it. But put a two-post lift on the same slab, or roll a loaded trailer across it twice a month, and it's suddenly being asked for something nobody built into it.

So the first conversation is about use, not appearance. We've told people their ugly floor is fine and told other people their clean floor has to come out.

What we ask before recommending anything

  • What the space does besides park cars: shop, storage, freezer, home gym
  • Whether anything heavy is coming, like a lift, a safe, or a boat trailer
  • Whether the slab has actually dropped or has only worn on top
  • Whether water shows up in there on days it hasn't rained or snowed
  • Which way it drains today, and where the slush ends up
  • Whether the walls bear on the slab edge or on their own footing
  • Whether a coating is in the plan, and how soon after the pour
  • How many days you can live without the garage

Replace it now or ride it out

Four common conditions, what another five winters does to each, and what we'd actually tell you.
What the floor is doingFive more winters of itWhat waiting costsOur call
Fine map cracking, surface still hardLooks about the same, maybe a shade dustierNothing worth namingRide it out. Sweep it and stop thinking about it
Sheds gray dust no matter how often you cleanFilm on the shelves, the toolbox, and everything stored in thereModerate. Grinding and coating still works while the slab is soundHandle it now. Wait long enough and a coating has nothing left to grip
A crack with a lip you feel through your shoeThe lip grows, water gets underneath, the two sides keep drifting apartReal. It turns from a concrete job into a concrete job plus dirt workDeal with it this year
A corner that dropped and holds waterPonding becomes ice, the drop deepens, the wall base starts to sufferHigh, and by then it isn't only about the floorReplace it, and fix whatever let the ground move
Not sure which of those is your floor?

Open the door, take two photos from the back wall, and send them over. We'll tell you straight. (303) 569-4046.

Three things a garage slab has to get right

Moisture first. The ground under a garage stays damp, and with no plastic between it and the concrete that moisture keeps coming up through the slab. It shows as a floor that sweats in spring, white crust at the back wall, or a coating letting go in sheets. Plastic costs almost nothing and cannot be added later.

Then fall toward the door. Cars bring snow in, it melts, and the water either leaves or sits against the wall until it evaporates. Dead flat means a permanent damp line at the back. A slight, steady pitch to the opening fixes it with no drain and no upkeep.

And joints. A garage is a rectangle with one opening, which sounds simple and isn't. The slab will crack; the layout decides whether that happens on a line you chose or somewhere across the middle. We break the floor into roughly square panels and run cuts out from the door corners, where the stress collects.

4 inunder cars, the floor beneath any garage slab
5-6 inwhen a lift, a trailer, or a work truck is in the plan
1/8 in per ftof fall to the door so slush leaves on its own
28 daysbefore a coating goes onto new concrete

Scheduling, and how long the garage is out of service

A one or two car garage moves quickly. Tear-out and haul-off take a day, base and forms another, and the pour is a morning. Walk on it in two days, drive on it in a week. What people underestimate is the emptying. Everything on that floor goes somewhere else first.

Timing is kinder here than on exterior work, since a roof means no rain landing on fresh concrete. Spring through fall is easy. Cold weather is workable in a garage tied to the house, because the space holds enough warmth to protect a blanketed pour. Detached and unheated in January is the hard case, and we'd sooner wait out the frost than pour over it.

Englewood Garage Floors

Garage Floors in Englewood

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Not automatically, no. Builder slabs get a bad reputation and some of it is earned, but plenty of them were poured properly and are still doing fine forty years on. What a new floor buys you is control: known thickness, known base, plastic underneath, reinforcement where you want it, and slope that goes the direction you asked for. If the old one already does those things, there's no prize for replacing it.

We'd pour it as one slab but not as one spec. The shop half gets extra thickness and heavier steel, and if a lift is coming we thicken locally under the post locations rather than beefing up the entire floor. It all goes in the same morning as a single placement, with the joint layout arranged so the transition doesn't land somewhere awkward.

Only if the space is heated or you intend to heat it. Rigid foam under a heated slab keeps the warmth in the room instead of feeding it to the ground, and it pairs well with tubing if that's ever on the table. In an unheated garage it does very little and adds cost. Tell us which one you're building before we set anything, since this is another thing you can't add later.

Floor first, nearly always. Concrete work is wet, dusty, and involves machines swinging around, none of which is kind to finished walls. Pouring first also lets the bottom track of the drywall land at the right height relative to the finished slab. If the walls are already up, we can work around them, we're just more careful and it takes longer.

Usually not. That spot is where salt-loaded slush drips off the car and sits, so it takes chemical and freeze-thaw abuse the middle of the floor never sees. A partial-depth patch, saw-cut square and bonded properly, is a real repair there. What would change our mind is finding the damage goes clear through, which means water has been getting underneath.

It changes the winter half of the calendar. A garage against the house steals warmth from it, so a blanketed cold-weather pour in there works out. Detached is basically outdoors with a roof over it, and the ground beneath freezes as deep as your yard does. April through October, no difference. January, a big one.

Depends on the concrete, not the drop. If the slab itself is intact and it has simply gone down as a unit, lifting it is faster, cheaper, and you keep using the building the next day. If it's broken into pieces that have each moved on their own, lifting only raises the pile of broken concrete. We'll say which one you've got before either number gets written down.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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