(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
Go Denver Concrete
RV & Boat Pads in Centennial, Colorado
Centennial, Colorado

Centennial RV and Trailer Pads

The pad itself happens in one morning. Everything that decides how long it lasts happened in the two days before the trucks showed up.

Homeowners picture pour day as the whole job. It is the loud part, and it is the part the neighbors watch. But by the time the first truck backs down the side yard, the outcome is already mostly determined, because a pad that holds a loaded rig for twenty years is decided by grade stakes and a plate compactor, not by how fast the finishers move.

We build these across Centennial wherever a lot has room. Piney Creek and Foxridge have side yards deep enough to swing a trailer into, and Walnut Hills properties often have the width to run a pad alongside the existing drive. What follows is what actually happens on your property, day by day, so nothing on the schedule catches you sideways.

The two days before any concrete arrives

Day one is layout and dirt. We stake the footprint off the real dimensions of your rig plus room to open the door and walk around the tongue, then strip the topsoil and haul it off. Topsoil is organic, organic material compresses, and no slab survives being built on it. Then we cut to grade, which on a pad like this means going deeper than people expect, since we are stacking six inches of concrete over a base section that has to carry axle loads without dishing.

Day two is base, forms, and steel. Aggregate goes down in lifts with compaction between each one. Forms get set to a pitch, never dead level, so water leaves instead of sitting where the tires do. Then the steel: number four rebar tied on a grid, sitting on chairs so it ends up in the middle third of the slab rather than lying on the dirt doing nothing. That is what a suspiciously low bid leaves out. Steel on the ground is decoration.

6"slab depth for a fifth wheel or a motorhome
#4rebar tied on a grid and held up on chairs
4,000 PSIair-entrained mix, the standard for exterior work here
7 daysbefore the rig rolls on, 28 for full design strength

Pour morning, in the order it happens

  • Access route protected with plywood where a truck crosses lawn or an existing drive
  • First truck discharges at the far end, so we work toward the exit and never strand ourselves
  • Concrete placed, raked to depth, and screeded flat between the forms
  • Bull float pass while the surface is open, then a wait, since floating early traps water in the top layer
  • Edges tooled and the apron transition brought level with the existing drive
  • Broom finish drawn across the direction of travel for tire grip
  • Control joints saw cut the same day, before the slab picks its own crack lines
  • Curing compound on, forms left in place, site cleaned before the crew leaves
Wondering whether a truck can even reach your side yard?

Text us a picture of your gate and the ground between it and the street. That detail tells us more about the schedule and the number than the size of the pad does.

Weather runs the clock on a pour this size

A pad big enough for a motorhome is a lot of open surface, and open surface is where our weather does its damage. In July the sun at this altitude plus a dry wind pulls moisture out of the top faster than the slab can bleed it back, and you get a crusted skin over soft concrete. So summer pours start at first light and we keep an evaporation retarder and hoses close.

Afternoon storms are the other half. Rain on concrete that has finished and begun to set is a nuisance we cover with plastic. Rain during finishing is destructive, since it works water into the paste and leaves a surface that dusts and flakes from then on. When the forecast turns ugly we start early, keep sheeting on hand, and push the date if the morning radar is bad enough. You want us making that call.

Cold changes the recipe rather than the plan. We warm the water at the plant, run an accelerator with no chloride in it, and blanket the slab until it has strength. Frozen subgrade is the hard stop, every time.

Four places the pad can go

Where the slab lands changes the access, the turning room, and what we have to build
LocationGetting the rig in and outWhat it changes about the build
Alongside the existing drivewayEasiest. Straight shot from the street, no tight pivotNeeds dowels or a clean isolation joint at the seam so the two slabs move independently
Behind the gate in the side yardTight. Mirror clearance and swing radius are the limits, not pad widthAccess for our equipment matters as much as yours. Often a buggy or pump job
Extension off the back of the driveGood, if the turn at the top of the drive is wide enough for a long trailerExisting apron usually needs correcting so the transition is not a bump under the axles
Standalone pad with a gravel approachDepends on how the approach is built and how it drainsCheaper slab, but the gravel strip ruts every spring and you will be regrading it
The pours that go sideways are the ones where nobody walked the route first. We show up with concrete on the way and find a gate two inches narrower than the buggy.What the crew sees on site
Centennial RV & Boat Pads

RV & Boat Pads in Centennial

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Usually two or three loads for a full size pad, spaced so we place continuously instead of waiting around. The crew is here from early morning to early afternoon on pour day, plus two prep days ahead of it and a short return for joint sawing and cleanup. Figure most of a week start to finish, with your yard genuinely disrupted for only part of that.

Depends on timing. A storm arriving after the surface has set is manageable and we cover the slab. A storm landing while we are floating and brooming damages the finish permanently, and no amount of sealing later hides it. So we start at first light to beat the afternoon pattern, and if the morning radar looks bad we reschedule rather than gamble with your slab.

Steel goes in the day before, once the base is compacted and forms are set, and yes, come look. That is the one inspection worth doing yourself. You want to see rebar tied at the intersections and sitting up on chairs an inch or two off the base, not lying flat on the gravel. Steel resting on dirt finishes at the bottom of the slab, carrying nothing.

Yes, and it should be. The transition from the existing drive onto the new pad takes the wheels a hundred times a season, so pouring it in the same placement keeps a cold joint out of the traffic path. We match elevations across the seam and tool a joint at the line so the two slabs can move a little without breaking each other.

That works. Foot traffic is fine after a day or two, a passenger vehicle at about a week, and a loaded rig at a week is acceptable if the weather has been reasonable. Concrete reaches design strength around twenty eight days, and holding off until then before parking something heavy for months is better still. What we would avoid is driving across it in the first few days.

Pitched, always, about an eighth of an inch of fall per foot in one direction. Level looks right on paper and holds a puddle in practice, and a puddle under a parked rig means standing water and ice all winter right where the tires sit. That much pitch is well inside what leveling jacks handle and you will not feel it underfoot.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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