Slab lifting with a sand-and-cement slurry, hole by hole, panel by panel, done in an afternoon.
Lift day is loud for about three hours and then it's over. We back the pump rig up near the work, chalk the panels that have dropped, and start drilling. By early afternoon the slab that used to catch your toe sits flush with its neighbor, the holes are patched, and you're walking across it. That's the entire pitch, and for the right slab it's hard to beat.
We lift settled concrete all over town. The Meadows sends us sidewalk panels and garage aprons. Castlewood Ranch sends patios that sagged along the back of the house. Plum Creek sends older walks that have been giving up a quarter inch a decade since long before the current owners moved in. Same rig, same slurry, wildly different quantities of it.
Mudjacking pumps a wet mix of sand, portland cement, and water under a slab through drilled ports. It fills the void, then keeps filling until pressure starts pushing the concrete upward. Simple physics, done that way for generations. The mix isn't fancy. What matters is consistency: soupy enough to travel to the far corners, stiff enough that it won't chase a path to daylight and blow out at the edge.
Here's the part that decides whether we recommend it at all. Slurry is heavy. A cubic foot runs somewhere over a hundred pounds, so a lift adds real mass on top of soil that already failed once. Over a compacted driveway base, that's a non-issue. Under a patio sitting on loose backfill against a foundation, the extra weight can restart the settlement. So we probe first, and if what's down there is soft and saturated we point you toward foam instead.
Lay a broom handle across it, take a photo, and text it over. We can usually tell you on the phone whether a lift will hold.
| Slab | How well it lifts | What we're watching |
|---|---|---|
| Sidewalk and garden path panels | Excellent | Thin panels come up clean as long as hole spacing stays tight. |
| Driveway approach and garage apron | Very good | We look for a spidered edge that will shear apart under pressure. |
| Patio along the back of the house | Good, paired with drainage work | Lifting without fixing the downspout means booking the same job twice. |
| Steps and stoops | Case by case | An attached stoop may be tied to a footing that never moved at all. |
| Pool deck panels | Limited | Plumbing runs and bonding wire below change where we can put holes. |
| Slabs broken into more than three pieces | We decline | Every fragment rises at its own rate and you end up with a mosaic. |
March through November is our working range, and the reason is frost rather than comfort. Slurry cures slowly when the ground beneath it sits near freezing. Worse, a subgrade frozen solid props a slab up during the lift and then lets go at thaw, so you pay for a level walk in February and get the old dip back in April.
Late spring is our busiest stretch, because that's when winter's damage announces itself. Fall is arguably better. Soil moisture has evened out after the storm season, nothing much will shift before the ground freezes, and a September lift gets months to consolidate. No urgency? Book the fall date. A hazard today? We'll come today.
One note tied to this elevation. July and August storms can soak a subgrade in under an hour, and we won't lift into saturated ground. We wait a day and come back.
People always brace for the holes to look terrible. They don't. We grout them the same day, tool them flat, and after one winter of dust and sun you have to know where to look. The seam we care about is the one at the edge of the panel, not the ports.The crew lead's read on it
Still unsure about something?
Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.
Get a free, no-obligation estimate from a crew that knows Colorado soil, Colorado weather, and how to finish concrete that lasts.
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