(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
Go Denver Concrete
RV & Boat Pads in Fort Collins, Colorado
Fort Collins, Colorado

Fort Collins RV Pads

Nobody wants concrete. They want the rig home, off the gravel, and sitting level.

The math on an RV pad is not really about concrete. It's about a storage bill that shows up every month whether you use the rig or not, a forty-minute round trip every time you want to load it, and a gravel patch beside the garage that turns into ruts by the second spring. Concrete ends all three. What it costs depends far less on square footage than most people expect.

We build pads all over Fort Collins, from side yards in Registry Ridge and The Landing to tight alley approaches behind older properties near Old Town. Two pads of identical size can be quoted very differently, and the difference is almost never the concrete itself. It's what we have to do to the ground first, and how we get equipment to it.

6 inslab depth where tandem axles and leveling jacks land
8 inof compacted road base beneath a pad that parks real weight
#4rebar tied on chairs at a two-foot grid, not laid on the dirt
28 daysto full design strength, which is when the heavy stuff parks

Where the money actually goes

Square footage sets the floor. After that, five things swing the number, and you can influence three of them. Access is first. If a truck can back to the forms and chute directly, the pour is a couple of hours. If the pad sits behind a gate, past a corner, or down the side of the house with three feet to spare, everything moves by buggy or pump, and that's labor and equipment before a single yard is placed.

Excavation and haul-off is second. Deep base means dirt leaving the property, and dirt is heavy. Third is grade. A pad has to be near level for the jacks, so a sloping side yard turns into either a cut into the hill or a built-up section with retention at the low edge. Fourth is thickness and steel, driven by what parks on it, and that one is not worth trimming. Fifth is everything you attach: apron, utility sleeves, a strip along the door side. Those are cheap now and painful later, which is the whole point of the next table.

Add it during the pour, or add it later

The same upgrade, priced two different ways by timing alone
UpgradeDuring the pourAfter the concrete is down
Conduit for a power outlet at the padA sleeve laid in the trench before base goes inSaw cutting, breaking out a strip, patching a seam that will always show
A hose bib line to the parking spotTrenched with everything else, one open ditchA second excavation crew and a scar across the finished slab
Extra length for a longer trailerMore forms and more yardage on the same tripA cold joint, a second mobilization, and two slabs that age differently
A walking strip along the door sidePoured monolithically with the padA separate small pour that settles at its own rate
A thickened edge under the jack pointsA deeper trench where the forms already areNot really fixable. You live with the dimples or you replace
Want the pad scoped before you commit to it?

We'll measure the approach, check the grade, and hand you a line-item quote you can actually compare. Free, and we don't chase.

What our winters do to a parking slab, and when to build

A pad carries weight in a few small places. Tires, jack feet, and sometimes a tongue jack, all of it concentrated and all of it parked in one spot for months. That's a different problem than a driveway, where the load moves and never sits. Then the rig itself becomes a weather shield: the slab under it stays dry and cold while everything around it soaks and freezes. Edges take the worst of it, which is why the apron and the outside foot of a pad are usually the first things to break down on a job that was built thin.

Up here the freeze cycles are longer and harder than the metro sees, so we run air-entrained mix, keep the slab pitched so nothing ponds under the rig, and cut joints on a grid that matches the pad's shape rather than a default spacing. Timing is easy for once. Fall is the best window we have. The rig is stored, the crew has room to work, and the concrete gets weeks of mild curing weather before winter. Spring works too, as long as we can get in after the ground dries out. Mid-summer pours start early to beat the afternoon storms.

What our written estimate spells out

  • Pad dimensions, including apron length and the transition to your existing drive
  • Excavation depth, base material, and how many compaction passes
  • Slab thickness and the reinforcement schedule
  • Any sleeves, conduit, or stub-outs going in before the pour
  • Where spoil goes and who hauls it
  • Drainage direction and what happens to runoff at the low edge
  • The date the pad can be parked on, in writing
The pads we tear out almost always failed in the same two feet: the outer edge where the tires cross getting on. Somebody saved base right where the wheel load lands hardest. We build that edge heavier than the middle now.From the crew lead on these jobs
Fort Collins RV & Boat Pads

RV & Boat Pads in Fort Collins

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Yes, and it's the easiest decision on the whole job. We put empty conduit and a sleeve in the trench while it's already open, so an electrician or plumber can pull through later without touching the slab. Cutting a finished pad to add either one costs more than the sleeve did and leaves a patched line across your new concrete forever.

We lay out a grid so no panel gets long and skinny, cut it the same day the pad is poured, and place the lines where the loads and the shape suggest rather than at a default spacing. Concrete shrinks as it cures and it will crack somewhere. Joints decide where, so the cracking happens down a straight sawed line where nobody notices it.

Tires can leave dark marks in hot weather, especially on a sealed surface, and those clean up with a degreaser and a stiff brush. Dents are a different story: jack feet on a thin slab press in permanently. That's why we thicken under the jack points and still recommend pads under the feet, which spreads the load and gives you a level bearing surface.

Base, and it isn't close. Concrete is strong in compression and weak in bending, so a slab supported evenly does its job at a sane thickness while a thick slab bridging a soft spot cracks anyway. We price the base honestly. If the budget is tight, we'd rather shrink the pad than shrink what's under it.

Carefully and mostly by hand, since there's no room for a plow around a parked trailer. Get the snow off the edges and out from under the tires rather than letting it melt, run, and freeze under the rig. Skip the ice melt during the first winter after the pour. Sand does the same job for traction without eating the surface.

The make and length of what parks there, whether a tow vehicle stays hooked up, how you plan to approach the pad, and any buried irrigation or utilities you know about. Photos of the side yard and the gate opening save a trip. From there we come out, shoot the grade, and put numbers on paper.

Deep winter, mostly. Frozen ground can't be compacted and shouldn't be poured on, and a big flat slab is hard to keep warm for the days it needs. April into late October is fair game. Book early either way; pad work stacks up in spring when everybody pulls the cover off.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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