(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
Go Denver Concrete
Mudjacking & Slab Jacking in Denver, Colorado
Denver County, Colorado

Denver Mudjacking

If the grade line along your walk looks wrong from the sidewalk, that's the panel we lift.

Most of these you can spot without leaving the sidewalk. A front walk where one panel dips and still holds water three days after a storm. A garage apron with a dark open seam where it dropped away from the slab beside it. A porch step that used to sit even with the walk and now has an extra inch of rise on it.

Those are settlement signs, and slurry lifting is usually the cheapest way out. The method is old and it still works. We drill a pattern of ports through the slab, pump a sand and cement mix underneath until the panel floats back up against its neighbor, then trowel the ports closed. One panel or twenty. Most of it wraps inside a day, and nothing goes in a dumpster.

The symptoms you can see from the street

Water tells on a slab before anything else does. A panel that dips even a half inch keeps a puddle after every summer storm, and by January that puddle is ice your mail carrier learns to step around. Look at the joints too. When one side of a joint casts a shadow line the others don't, that side dropped.

Gates are another giveaway. A back gate that used to swing clean and now scrapes says the walk under it came down. So does a shed door that binds, a sprinkler head standing proud of a settled panel, and a downspout kick-out spilling onto concrete that tips the wrong way. None of that needs a tape measure. You just have to stop and look.

1-5/8"port we drill to run the slurry line
4-6 fttypical spacing between ports across a panel
Same dayback on foot once the ports are troweled
24-48 hrsbefore a car returns to a lifted apron

Why Denver panels drop where they do

Almost every lift we do traces back to a trench or a downspout. Utility work runs under front walks and along alleys all over this city, and trench backfill compacts on its own schedule for years afterward. The slab bridges the soft spot until it can't. Add a gutter that dumps at the corner of the house and you get a void carved out from below, one storm at a time.

Vintage matters. Around Park Hill, Wash Park, and University Hills we're usually lifting original flatwork that has been riding a slow settlement curve since before anybody reading this owned the place. In Central Park and the scrape-and-rebuild pockets of Berkeley and Sloan's Lake, the panels are newer and the culprit is fresh backfill that never got compacted in lifts. Different story, same droop.

What the street view is telling you

Six things people notice from the sidewalk, and whether a slurry lift answers them
What you can seeWhat happened underneathDoes slurry fix it
One walk panel dips and holds waterBase washed out, or the trench under it kept consolidatingYes. Textbook lift. Drill, pump, set it back flush to its neighbor.
Dark open seam at the garage apronThe apron settled and pulled down off the garage slabYes, if the apron is otherwise sound. We raise it and reseal the joint.
Slab now tips back toward the houseBackfill along the foundation is still settlingYes, and this one jumps the line. Water at the wall beats a trip hazard for urgency.
Sunken panel with two cracks across itThe slab broke as its support disappearedOften. Broken concrete lifts in pieces. Two cracks is a yes, five is usually a no.
Whole run slopes evenly downhillNothing. That's the grade it was poured onNo. There's nothing to raise. Somebody built it that way on purpose.
Crumbling edges, flaking top, panel still flatSurface wear from deicer and freeze cyclesNo. Lifting corrects grade, never the top half inch.
Send a photo from where you're standing

Take the picture from the spot where the dip first caught your eye. We'll tell you whether that panel is a lift candidate.

Weight, hose reach, and when we say no

Here's the honest limitation. Slurry is heavy. We're filling a void with sand, cement, and water, and that material stays down there as added dead load on the same soil that already gave way once. On firm subgrade that's fine and it has been fine for decades. On soft organic fill, or over a void we can't account for, adding weight is asking for a second visit. Those jobs get polyurethane or a new pour, and we'll say which.

Access is the other constraint. The rig parks where a truck can park, and we run hose from there, so an alley-side patio behind a Highlands bungalow is a hose-length question before it's a concrete question. We work that out before you're on the schedule. Season runs roughly March into December here. Frozen ground can't be pumped, and a slurry placed into a frozen void does nothing useful.

Before the pump ever starts

  • Sprinkler lines and private utilities located, because the drill goes through and stops
  • Lift target chalked on the neighboring panel so everyone can see the finish line
  • Joint edges cleared of caulk and debris so the panel can move freely
  • Port pattern laid out to the void, not on a lazy grid
  • Adjacent siding, steps, and landscaping covered before slurry moves
  • Ports patched flush and colored toward the slab, then floated smooth
  • Water routing reviewed with you, since the thing that caused it is still there
Denver Mudjacking

Mudjacking in Denver

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

It can, but you're trading a small job for a bigger one. An uncracked slab lifts as one piece and comes back nearly invisible. Once it breaks, we're lifting sections that each want to go their own way, and the seams stay visible. If the dip is holding water against your house, don't wait at all.

Sand, portland cement, and water, mixed to a consistency that flows under pressure and still sets up hard. No chemicals, no expanding agents. It fills the void by volume and cures into a firm bearing layer. Mixes vary by what a job needs, and we can go stiffer where a void is large or thinner where the gap is tight.

Only the bad ones, most of the time. Lifting is panel by panel, so there's no reason to touch concrete that's already sitting right. The exception is when four out of six panels are low. At that point the two good ones become the odd ones out, and it reads better to bring the whole run to a single plane.

Slow pumping and constant eyes on the joint. One person runs the pump, another watches the target line with a level laid across the joint, and we work port to port so the panel comes up evenly instead of tilting off one corner. Overshooting cracks concrete. Going slow is the whole skill.

Yes, and people skip it. Once a panel is back where it belongs, the joint beside it should get cleaned and sealed so surface water stops running straight back into the void we just filled. It's a small step. Skipping it is how a slab you paid to raise ends up dropping again in a few seasons.

Typically into December on the right week, and we start again as soon as the ground releases in early spring. What stops us isn't air temperature, it's frozen subgrade. Slurry pumped against frost sits there, the frost leaves, and the support goes with it. Warm dry stretches in a Denver winter are real, and we use them.

When weight is the risk, when the slab sits against something that can't take any push, or when you need it back in service in an hour. Foam goes in through much smaller ports, weighs almost nothing, and sets in minutes. Slurry costs less and does fine on solid subgrade. We pick by what's under the concrete, not by preference.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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