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Decorative Overlays & Resurfacing in Arvada, Colorado
Arvada, Colorado

Arvada Concrete Overlays

Follow the downspout before you shop for a topping. Everything a quarter inch thick lives or dies on where the water goes.

We show up to a lot of overlay estimates and spend the first ten minutes not looking at the concrete at all. We're looking at downspouts, sprinkler heads, the grade at the edge of the slab, and where the snow off the roof lands in March. A bonded topping is a wearing surface, not a structure. It inherits every good thing and every bad thing about whatever is holding the old slab up.

When the ground underneath is stable and dry, an overlay is one of the better values in this trade: a whole new surface with texture and color, over concrete that keeps doing the structural work. When the ground underneath is wet, loose, or still moving, it's a nicely finished delay. Telling those two apart is most of what we do before writing a number down.

Where the water is coming from

Nearly every failed slab we look at has a water source within twenty feet of it. A downspout dumping at the corner of a patio soaks the soil right where the slab edge bears. A sprinkler zone throwing onto the concrete every morning keeps the perimeter wet all summer. A patio pitched a hair back toward the house sends every rain into the fill against the foundation, which is the worst possible place for it. None of those problems live in the concrete. All of them show up in the concrete.

So the order of operations matters more than the product. Extend the downspout, turn or cap the head, fix the grade, give the water somewhere to go. Then bond a topping. Do it the other way around and you've put a new surface on a slab that's still going to move, and it will crack over the same joint it was always going to crack over. We'd rather have that conversation at the estimate than a year after the work.

What we check under and around a slab before quoting a topping

  • Where every downspout discharges and how far it carries water past the concrete
  • Sounding the panels with a hammer to find hollow spots where base has washed out
  • Elevation across every joint, since panels at different heights mean the ground already moved
  • Whether the original slab went down on compacted road base or straight onto native soil

Water sources, what they leave on the surface, and the fix that comes first

Problems we solve before anything gets bonded
Where the water comes fromWhat it does to the slabWhat has to happen before a topping
Downspout dumping at a slab cornerSettled corner, cracked panel, soft base under the edgeCarry the discharge well past the concrete, then stabilize what's under it
Fill under newer construction that never got compactedPanels settling unevenly a few years after the house went upFill the voids and let the slab sit through a full season first
Groundwater under an old slab with no baseHollow sound, rocking panels, mud pumping up through jointsThat one is a tear-out. A topping over it is money gone

Bond prep, and where the thickness limits sit

Once the water question is settled, the rest is mechanical. A topping doesn't glue itself to concrete; it grips a profile we cut into it. Pressure wash and degrease first, then grind or shot blast until the surface has real tooth, then scrub a bond coat in rather than pour it on. Oil, tire dressing, or an old sealer left behind is a delamination waiting for its first cold snap.

Thickness has both a floor and a ceiling. Too thin and there isn't enough material to hold texture or take abuse. Too thick and the topping starts acting like its own slab, with its own shrinkage and no steel to control it. Most exterior work lands between a quarter and a half inch; past that we'd rather talk about a different system or a replacement. Every existing control joint carries through the new surface, and every crack that's still working gets routed, treated, and given a joint directly above it. Bridging a live crack is the single most common reason these fail early.

Let us look at the drainage before you price a topping

It's a twenty minute walk around the house and it changes the answer more often than people expect. Call (303) 569-4046.

Two kinds of ground in Arvada, and the season for this work

The west side communities, Candelas and Leyden Rock and Whisper Creek, sit on ground that was graded and filled before anybody framed a house. Done in a hurry, that fill keeps settling for years, and flatwork is where you notice first. In the older parts of town the ground made up its mind long ago, and the issue there is usually a thin slab poured onto native soil with no real base under it.

Season is tighter than a normal pour. A thin topping has no mass to hold heat and no time to gain strength before temperatures drop, so we place exterior overlays from May into early October, with September the pick of the year. We want nights above freezing for several days after placement, no afternoon cell arriving mid-job, and a slab that isn't hot enough to flash the material off. Interior toppings run all year.

Arvada Overlays & Resurfacing

Overlays & Resurfacing in Arvada

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Extensions, splash courses, and regrading right at the slab we handle as part of the job, because there's no point bonding a surface we know will get soaked. Full gutter replacement or a buried drain line running across the yard is somebody else's trade, and we'll say so and tell you what needs to be true before we come back. Nobody benefits from us pretending otherwise.

Usually yes for grading work, which mostly moves topsoil rather than the support under a slab. What matters more is whether the concrete itself has stopped moving. We run elevations across the joints and compare to whatever you remember from before. If the panels are level with each other and nothing sounds hollow, one full wet season and one freeze cycle is a reasonable wait.

It's common, and the cause matters more than the age. A tight shrinkage crack that runs off a joint corner is cosmetic and we can work with it. A crack with the two sides at different heights means fill under the slab compressed, and on newer construction that's the one we watch hardest. Give us photos and a straightedge reading across it and we can usually sort which you have.

We do, and it's easy enough to find at an exposed edge, a joint, or where the concrete meets the driveway. Thickness tells us what the slab can carry, since the topping adds nothing structural. Four inches under a car is fine. Three inches under a truck that turns in place is a slab we'd rather replace than dress up, no matter how good the surface prep is.

There are two paths. One is stopping the water at the source, which is the durable fix and the cheaper one. The other is filling the voids that water left behind, either with a cementitious slurry or with polyurethane foam through small ports, which lifts and supports the panel again. Both are real options. Neither replaces fixing the drainage that caused it.

We can put material on it, but you'd be paying to make a bathtub prettier. A slab below the surrounding grade collects runoff and holds it against the concrete, which is exactly the condition that kills toppings. The fix is cutting the grade back and giving that low edge somewhere to drain. Handle that first and the overlay becomes a good idea instead of a short one.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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